Micronesia shipwreck!

Sad news as a famous liveaboard hits the local reef.



http://stpns.net/view_article.html?articleId=42749775362134952

Similans

Sometimes the turtles just want to be seen while diving. So sitting on the boat...this feller pulls right up and is begging for treats.

We didn't feed him, but the next boat did. Oh well....lead by example



Khao Lak Diving
Similan Liveaboards

Khao Lak Tsunami updates

While we were here during the tsunami and it did affect us, we have taken a firm stand about not exploiting that fact and have learned from those around us - We have been through that, we have dealt with it and life continues.

Living here has given us a lot of hope and insight into ourselves and most of humanity. The news is good. So we continue on and enjoy ourselves and those around us.

We have also learned a lot about charities, NGO's and "christians" during this time. One example is the massive increase in the number of fishing boats. It was obvious at the time that many people's livelihood's were destroyed along with their boats. The donations came in. Now there is an estimated 75% more fishing boats in the region than before the tsunami. It says that donations were effective, but misguided. When do you say - stop?

the "christians" were/are among the very worst behaved of all the people that came through. They gave gifts of furniture and housing - conditional upon attendance at church. We know of at least two instances where these gifts were forcibly taken back after not attending church. Needless to say there is something of a bad taste ...

The only one that seems to be an exception is Worldvision. They are a christian group with an agenda, and that's not acceptable in my book. But in this region (I know nothing of Indonesia or Sri Lanka) they were the single NGO that was where it was needed, doing the work that helped and really getting the job done.

As a matter of fact, there are several charities still headquartered here in Khao Lak. Which seems strange as this is a region of white beaches, 5 star resorts and prosperous families.

So this press release by World vision is very interesting indeed. While things are not perfect, they are really saying how things have progressed and changed people. I found this qoute to be the most affirming....


"Though many households are now thriving, others continue to struggle for a variety of reasons, such as the loss of a prime income earner or continued underemployment, but most people surveyed felt a more positive relationship between community members, a renewed appreciation for one another and a higher value on life after surviving the disaster. Those who reported negative changes point to financial stress and an increase in alcohol consumption. Across all provinces, people named strengthened relationships as the primary motivation for, and benefits of working together on community-based activities such as building houses, collecting garbage, and planting trees."

The trees they are mentioning are to rebuild mangroves as buffers against any future waves. The community is stronger. And yes, if you lost several of your family members in a tsunami, I reckon you might be develop a drinking problem.

Overall things are going fine and many of the NGO's have shut down operations and left. Banda Aceh is still struggling under the burden of redevelopment.

Khao Lak weather - June 2007

There are plenty of ups and downs to living here. We get so much nature it hurts. It's so green that I sometimes pine for the desert. I'm the only person that wears a helmet. Rent is less than $100 a month.

So today two joys of life here come to mind....we signed up for automatic billing of our phone lines. We were immediately cut off. It took 12 hours to get ourselves reconnected.

The other is today's weather forecast.....

"(BangkokPost.com) - An active southwest monsoon prevailed over the Andaman Sea, Thailand and the Gulf on Wednesday morning, bringing abundant rain throughout the country, according to the Meteorological Department.

There will be heavy rain in the following provinces -- Chiang Mai, Mae Hong Son, Lamphun, Lampang, Chiang Rai, Nan, Phrae, Uttaradit, Sukhothai, Tak, Rayong, Chanthaburi, Trat, Ranong, Phangnga, Phuket and Krabi.

The department warned that people should beware of flooding in the following a day or two.

Strong wind and wave is also likely in the Gulf and the Andaman Sea, it said.

Widespread thundershowers with isolated heavy rain are also expected in Bangkok."

The only problem....we've been sitting under these monsoons for two days and they just moved away today. As you can see from the picture. So our weather forecasters are almost 100% correct as the use the old - hindsight method of forecasting. They wait until after the weather has passed, then issue the prediction.


Khao Lak Diving
Thailand Liveaboards

Similan Dive Sites - Snapper Alley

Located at the SouthEastern end of Similan #9
was used primarily for a training ground as it had large sandy patches with nice coral heads scattered around, but not so much that it would harm a diver or a diver could harm the coral.

It featured lots of nice bommies and several really nice table corals. So many students were introduced to diving here.

As both DM's and instructors we loved this site. Very easy to teach, but also had plenty of things to hold everyone's interest. It was also one of the best places to teach a student and have their family/friends snorkeling at the same time.

While most of the Similan dive sites were unaffected by the tsunami (too far off shore) this is the site that got hit the worst. As it was in a narrow channel and laid out directly in the path of the wave, it meant that the all the flow of onrushing water came right in and overturned a lot of the corals and swept a lot of the sand away.

IT will still take some time to recover, but as you can see from the surface it's still a very scenic place to visit.
The upper picture is from the rocks above Snapper alley, looking over the site towards Donald Duck Bay.

The lower picture is looking west towards the liveaboard mooring bay that has hundreds of different names.

And yes, the water is that blue. Again - it's why we live here.



Most of our training dives are now done in either Donald Duck Bay or Honeymoon Bay


Similan Daytrips
Similan Liveaboards

Wicked Diving - More about us

Here is a recent sketch of myself and Karin.

Feeling good - looking good. That's what matters isn't it?

It is also true that my lower legs are almost entirely transparent.

Similan Sunshine for a cloudy day

Yup...it's like this on the Similans! Beautiful water, nice beaches and of course - diving.

I usually don't have time for the hammock, but it sure calls out to me today.

It makes for fantastic days, and that's why we live here!


Wicked Diving
Liveaboardguide

Khao Lak Diving - Bon soong

Just saw this one in our library and thought I'd put it out here for all to see.

This is a lovely example of chromodoris annulata or for the more nerdy - Chromi's.

These are really beautiful, and often quite easy to see. Due to their bright colors.

This is most frequently seen on Nudi Wall on Bon Soong wreck and can often be seen from several meters away.

Elephant problems

So we have different signs for road hazards here.


In this case I would pay attention. You REALLY don't want to hit one of these.

Heck, you don't even want to hit their droppings!

They are huge!

Similan Diving

Just felt the mood strike for some reminders about the Similans and why we're here. Haven't been in the water for a spell, so I felt a bit dried out.



Here is a picture of Princess bay on Similan Island #4



And here is a picture of Donald Duck Bay on Similan Island #8


Check out our Liveaboard pages for updated schedules and deals.


We are looking forward to seeing all of you next year!

Khao Sok Redux...

Khao Sok National Park




Went for a bit of a ride this week. Made my way over to Koh Tao, which is on the other side of Thailand and a bit of a boat ride. So I took my scooter and rode like the wind. A slow sort of sputtering wind, but you know I was screaming "Born to Wild" while cruising along.


(click on all pictures for a larger copies)


One of the main reasons that I took the bike was so I could poke around in Khao Sok National park. One of the most beautiful places in Thailand.



I've included just a few pictures here. There is also a bit on Khao Sok in this posting.



These massive pillars and geographical features start here in this region and continue south until you reach the much more famous (and crowded) pinnacles in Krabi and Phang Nga bay.





We often take day trips to visit these and to remind ourselves that this region of Thailand is so much more than just diving and snorkeling. Khao Sok National Park is the largest in Thailand and has some amazing wildlife - including wild Elephants, Bears, Largest Flower in the world and plenty more. The region surrounding the park is undeveloped and features not only the largest stretches of Rain forest in Thailand but the oldest existing rain forest in the world.






There is also the lake, man made and still rising. So much more - Rock Climbing, Golf Courses, rafting, trekking as well as the beaches.

Things found in our bathroom 3

Well here is a weird one for sure. It flew in last night and is quite a large moth with a wingspan of about half my hand.

With it's wings spread it looks much like a skull pattern on the wings. with green arms. Quite attractive, but a bit weird, like a cartoon mystery gets solved by following this to the treasure....



It was still there in the morning and it looked much more like a crumpled leaf. It's head, which is pretty hard to see (sorry) looks like a bat with a long nose.


Sorry - not enough time in the water so ....

Surin Islands

Ah the lovely Surin Islands


Does it get much more scenic? This is one of our favorite places to relax and enjoy life. This is where we go on our vacations.


You can see why


The diving isn't as good as on the Similan Islands, but the snorkeling makes up for it. Really nice coral in really good conditions throughout the Islands. We also find some really special species that we don't see other places (Barramundi for example).

This is also the best place to spend the night. Not stuffed with luxury or anything like extraordinary, it's just great location. Tents just off the beaches, with such gorgeous scenery surrounding the area.

The tents and bungalows are simple, if not barren and really are jsut places to put stuff. This is all about nature. And boy does it deliver.

There are also miles of trails through primary rain forest with some truly amazing animals - including the local monkeys and the Nicobar Pigeon. This is one of those truly amazing places that makes Thailand so special to us.



This is also a great place to do apnea/free diving as the reef slopes steeply away, not quite walls, but making for great swims. Face to face with Moray Eels, and Turtles.

The beaches are numerous and accessible via the trails or longtails.





Khao Lak Diving
Similan Liveaboards
Dive Safely

Khao Lak Weather - June 2007

A nice sunset...Click on it for larger size

Khao Lak bugs

Part of our ever growing catalog of bugs, beasties and oddities from the area comes this very cool spider I found in the jungle.


It was uncomfortable being photographed so I couldn't get the really cool details on it's back.
It was a brighter Red than this, and those black lines are actually a series of dots in a linear fashion.


The "horns" are just accessories as the legs are just in the middle. Really weird....


I haven't seen it in nay books, but it must be called a carabao spider as it has the same outline as the carabao (waterbuffalo) skull predominant in Thai culture.

This is not an ad for carabao energy drink. If you want to drink "water buffalo" energy drink - go ahead. Not my problem

Things found in our bathroom 2

So

with plenty of time on my hands and a empty camera I was able to add a few creatures to our collection of weird bugs....






The first one here is pretty common but overlooked because it really does look like some twig on the wall, except when you brush it off it gets up and flies around just like any other bug.











These next pix are of the one that is more "stick" than bug. These get completely stiff when moved and even feel like a stick.





I had to be still for several minutes before it opened up and walked around.




Fortunately I was feverish and had plenty going on inside my head and could amuse myself by staring at a twig waiting for it to move.

Except it Did.

hmmm....


The other pictures I took seemed to be more heavily influenced by the fevers and not worthy of mention....

Feeling better

After a few days laid up with a fever-bad stomach-flu sort of things I am feeling much better.

As you can see here.

It was cold out.


I caught up on a couple series of TV shows that we download and I could now rant and rave about the horrors of American crappy TV with the wisdom of one who has recent experience with such shameful rubbish.

Khao Lak Activities - Chong Fah Waterfall

Just up the road from our house is Chong Fah waterfall. this time of year the waterfalls are gorgeous, and the surrounding jungles are worth the hike alone - so deep green and lush.
Chong Fah used to be a national park, but there never seems to be anyone there. This was also high ground that became an evacuation center for the tsunami.


The river is the same one that runs right by our house. So we like to take the long winding road up through rubber plantations to the top of the road and then walk. Depending how the rangers are feeling (if they're there at all) you might be able to ride about half way, or you might have to walk. In total I would reckon it's 1 km.


You walk through bamboo forest and the overhanging jungle. All very pleasant, wear good shoes if it rained recently.


Look for all the cool things we have along the way - bats hidden in the branches, colorful mushrooms, and plenty more.

Finally you cross a small creek and then on up to the waterfall. Next to which there is very nice old spirit house that reminds you that there is more here than just a pretty picture.


The waterfall comes from the range of mountains behind Khao Lak and even if full, the water is still very pleasant - especially if it has been a hot day! There are little fishies in the water that nibble at your toes.


This is only one of several waterfalls in the area. It just happens to be right near our house so I thought I'd share


Wicked
Liveaboardguide

Khao Lak Market Day

Just a bit of extra about Khao Lak. We have a large market to the North of Town that is open every day and has fresh veggies and fruit. It's about 6km form our shop in between Bang Niang and Khuk Khak - hidden behind some shop houses, so not too many tourists now about it.

On Monday, Wednesday and Saturday we have our large traveling market come to town. This has much more of the carnival atmosphere and the fruits and veg are fresher and more selection.
There is also a lot of clothes, posters and CD's for sale. Many of the people who go are the local Burmese (our migrant laborers) so many of the posters are in Burmese (different language and writing) and feature different people.

Saturday is the big day and there are lots of extra booths. The flower lady's come out, the perfumes and wathces and lots of other stuff.

It's also a great way get cheap food. There are lots of weird treats for sale. Anything from curry puffs/samosas to homemade gelatin drinks (like Jello shooters, except with seeds and other yuck and no alcohol).

We do most of our shopping here (when we get the chance). The local stores do have most of the sundries we need. But this does a lot for the local income.

One of the unusual and unexpected affects of the tsunami was the proliferation of hydroponic
gardens. Very good macro investments for NGO's and it means that there are heaps of good, safe veggies to eat! So fresh salad a couple times a week - that's hard to find in Thailand.

Wicked
Liveaboardguide

Khao Lak Weather - June 2007

Again - great weather today.

What Can I say?

That palm tree that always in our pictures? That's Palm Oil tree. The red is the actually nuts that they bring to the big factories and squeeze to all hell!

Surin Dive Sites

Some 100 km north west of Khao Lak Beach (and 50 km off the west coast of Kuraburi) lie the Surin Islands consisting of five jungle cropped granite islands and their fringing coral reefs. Offering excellent snorkeling and great diving.

They are world-famous for their gorgeous, diverse and prolific shallow-water corals, and usually one of the highlights of anyone's visit to Thailand. This is an island paradise with numerous beautiful coves and bays, and dense jungle. The coral colonies surrounding the islands are the most well developed in Thailand, and are also considered some of the most beautiful.

As the Surins form a protective shape from the annual monsoon storms from the West, the entire Eastern side of the islands are covered in verdant hard corals. The corals start at the lowtide mark (be careful!) and descend on gentle slopes until meeting the sandy bottom anywhere between 10 and 20 Meters down. Because of this extensive coral density, the Snorkeling is incredible.

The Surin Islands have a couple of great dive sites, but because of the location they are often overlooked by liveaboards and dive operators in the region. A real shame. These are some of the best night dives in the world, and knowledgeable Divemasters have some secret sites that really just blow people away. Nearby Richelieu Rock will often have multiple boats at the same time, while Torinla and Koh Chi will not see a dive boat for days!

The Islands are quite different geologically from the surrounding sites of the Similans. with much more gently sloping reefs and the islands themselves are more spread out and lush.

By far the two largest islands are Ko Surin Nua (north island) and Ko Surin Tai (south island) and at one point these two islands lie just across a small bay from each other. Ko Chi, Ko Pachumba and Ko Torinla are the other islands. There is also the small rock outpost of Hin Rap ( 2km north of Surin Nua) and a series of granite boulders projecting above the surface at Hin Kong ( 2km east of the southern half of Surin Tai).

The park showcases some 200 coral species, with a basic ecosystem framework of fire corals, brain corals, mushroom corals, staghorn corals, and multi-coloured soft corals and ruby-red gorgonian sea fans. The coral and environs provide habitat to over 800 species of fish such as puffer fish, lion fish, butterfly fish, angel fish, barracuda, sailfish, rock lobsters and other crustaceans, and Moray eels. Four species of turtle (the Leatherback, the Green, the Olive Ridley and the Hawksbill) are to be found (try Ao Tau on the south island). Stranger species such as the frog fish and ghost pipe fish have also been sighted around the waters of Ko Surin.

This is also a common place to site Manta Rays and Our local version of Barramundi. For the macro enthusiast we often find some unusual Nudibranchs as well as other exotic species in the corals. Juvenile Shady Batfish!

Off the Surin western shores are submerged pinnacles which are reminiscent of some of the boulder formations of the Similans, but the best developed reefs are off the eastern coasts.

The park office and visitor's centre are at Ao Mae Yai on the north island (south west side). Basic accomodation is available in the form of park longhouses, bungalows, and camping grounds. The Park operates long-tailed boats to the main snorkelling sites and rents out equipment.

The best months to visit the Surin Islands are from December to April, when the weather is dry and pleasant, and the seas are calm, and water visibility is good. In fact it is not usually adviseable to visit the Surin Archipelago during the SW monsoons (June - September) due to adverse sea and weather conditions. (The National Park Office is closed office is closed, so it is not possible to visit)

The most economical way to reach the Surin Islands is from Ban Hin Lat, a small village pier which is 6 km north of Khura Buri, heading north from Khao Lak past Takua Pa on Route 4. The Road Time takes about 75 minutes. Speedboat only takes 45 minutes or so.

We do both Snorkeling and diving daytrips to the Surin Islands twice a week.

However access for the serious diver is almost exclusively via live-aboards. Only a few operators go there. Don't forget that the Similans, Richelieu Rock, Koh Bon and Koh Tachai are located here too!

If you are doing day trips - then this is should be one of the trips to make. If you are doing a liveaboard, ask if this is one of the destinations before booking.

Snorkelers -This is it! Better than the Similans and only matched by Koh Lipe in the South for quality and scenery. Stay overnight for a real treat!



Khao Lak Diving
Thailand Liveaboards
Diving Safely

Similan Marine Life - Bumphead Parrotfish

The Bumphead Parrotfish or Bolbometopon muricatumis both amazing and beautful. This is the largest of all the parrotfish family - which is known for colorful displays and strange lifestyles already.

The Bumpheads can grow as large as 1.3 Meters (4 1/2 Feet) and weigh as much as 80 Kilos (180 pounds). They are quite impressive and very exciting to watch. They have the very unusual shape to their heads (it is theorized) as they will use it to ram coral communities to make dining easier?! I've never seen this, but their heads look like they've had a bit of abuse, so it could very be true.

The other really amusing feature of the bumpheads are their teeth. They have what appears to be a huge beak sticking out. It is in fact a fused tooth that is so thick it can scrap and crush coral colonies. It looks very funny and is kind of intimidating at first. Once you realize they are not only harmless but quite timid you're attitude changes.

They are also quite peculiar in that they are hermaphroditic - they change sex. They are usually seprated by colors - the juveniles (found in shallows) and females are drab and the males are very brightly colored and vibrant.

As they are very slow to mature and reproduce, they are quite susceptible to diminishing populations or even extinction due to environmental or more realistically - human interference. They are very popular in the Aquarium trade and the Mock reefs of restaurants and resorts

They sleep in shallow areas and often in cracks and nooks in the reef that are often too small for them. Thus they are easily captured for aquariums or spearfished for meat.

Their role in the reef is amazing. Parrotfish are one of the primary sources of sand! They scrape algae off with their teeth, and whatever else gets in, they digest the food, and deposit sand. In most areas where the Bumpheads live, they play an integral role in controlling algae growth. Off the Dominican Republic there were large numbers of Parrotfish and living corals until the mid-80's. Then, after all other species were fished out, the Parrotfish (Not Bumpheads in this case) were taken in huge numbers. Very soon after the coral was all dead as there was no growth control on the algae. Now imagine when these are the size of humans and eat nearly 3 tonnes of algae a year!

(While they are not list as Endangered they are listed as threatened. In many areas of the world they are extinct. )

They are also quite peculiar in that they are hermaphroditic - they change sex. They are usually seperated by colors - the juveniles (found in shallows) and females are drab and the males are very brightly colored and vibrant.

While we do have them on The Similans - they are not common. Most frequently they are found at Shark Fin Reef and Boulder City. They are spotted at other sites, but not with the frequency one would hope.


So when you do see one, prepare for a giggle and a memory. You can also do your part in preventing their decline by asking what exactly the fish you are eating is - any kind of parrotfish is bad. They are also not that good an eating fish. Also avoid any of the farm raised shrimps and prawns as their feed is purely bycatch from trawlers - which destroys the habitats.

If you'd like to try and see one...contact us or check out our sites...
Wicked Diving
LiveaboardGuide

Similan Dive Sites - rocky point

Rocky Point - Ko Hu Yong (#1)
This site is located just off the most southeasterly tip of the island and offers a submerged ridge of jumbled granite boulders from the surface down to at least 40m. There are numerous ledges, archways, caves and crevices.
Depths from 12 - 40m. Visibilty 18 - 24m.
Hard corals and feather stars cover the shallower rocks, while soft corals wire corals and gorgonian sea fans reside at the deeper depths. Tree corals and barrel sponges abide in profusion.
There are predators such as dogtooth tuna, various species of jacks, leopard sharks, blue-spotted stingrays, and occasional white-tipped reef sharks. Surgeonfish, snapper and large groupers are always present.

Similan Dive Sites - Beacon Beach

Beacon Point/Beacon Beach South - Ko Similan (#8)
This is a good multilevel dive with interesting features at every depth. This south easterly reef is actually an extension of the lengthy sloping drop off running parallel to the eastern coast (Beacon Beach), and very comparable to the latter except that the coral at Beacon Point is superior.

There is abundant healthy hard coral along the shallow reeftop and the steeply dipping dropoff, and clumps of gorgonian sea fans and wire corals on the sandy floor.

Fish life is prolific with an abundance of the usual reef fish. Stingrays, leopard sharks and small reef sharks are also encountered. With favorable currents, it is possible to make a drift dive from Beacon Beach (some three hundred meters to the north).


Depths 6 - 36m. Visibility 18 - 24m.

Similan Dive Sites - stonehenge

Stonehenge - Ko Miang (#4)
This is a relatively deep site a couple of hundred meters off the northern tip of Ko Miang. Large granite boulders are strewn over a white sandy floor at an average depth of 30m. The best parts of the site lie between depths of 18 to 40m. At 20m one encounters hard corals, sponges and feather stars. In the canyons between the boulders and along the sides of the ridge, there are numerous sea fans, together with large barrel sponges, and gorgonian wire corals. Spiny lobsters and soldierfish hide in the deep crevices.

Zebrafish, Damselfish, butterfly fish, jacks, pinjalo snappers, turtles, and, at deeper depths, leopard and other reef sharks are all quite common. Tuna, angelfish and unicorn surgeonfish are also usually in the vicinity.
Depths from 18 - 36m. Average depth 30m. Visibility 18 - 24m.

Similan Dive Sites - Boulder City

This dive site is a continuation of the same Southern Similan geological feature that is Shark Fin Reef. This is the easternmost dive site of the Similan Islands, and can have strong currents. For those who step off the beaten track and are prepared for a fast ride, the rewards are huge. Due to the depth of the dive site and its easterly location, it is best to dive here early in the day.

This isn't the most requested of the Similan dive sites, so we only visit it once a week on our daytrips. It is, however, frequently visited by liveaboards.

With the boulders starting at 12 meters (36 feet) and heading down until the outer edges at 40 meters (130 feet) you feel as if you are a plane descending into a huge city. The population is chevron barracuda, trevallies, jacks and early in the season massive schools of glassfish make the whole site flex and move. In the sand at the bottom we frequently see leopard sharks, kuhl’s rays with occasional sightings of manta rays! However, do not forget to look in all the cracks and crannies. This is the place to find some beautiful scenes with schools of lionfish hiding in the cracks, and light streaming in from behind, setting the stage for those award winning pictures. Brightly colored surgeonfish grazing on the algae, with damselfish protecting their farms and triggerfish of multiple varieties overseeing it all make this a real underwater zoo.

Diving Depths range from 12-40 meters (36-120 feet) with most time spent at 20-30 meters (70-100 feet). Currents can be strong, as this is open ocean. Especially affected by tidal movement. Perform a current check before entering! Visibility can be phenomenal. Frequently you can see the entire dive site from the surface. Experience level should be Advanced. Currents and depth reserve this site for the truly experienced. Often overlooked for this reason, but it is a great dive!

Wicked Dive Sites

LiveaboardGuide

Similan Dive Sites - Southern Sites

The Southern Similan sites feature a couple of the best sites in all the Similans. Shark Fin Reef and Boulder City. These are unusual in that they are on the Eastern side of the chain, but are rocky sites.
We are only listing one site, Coral Garden, among the Southern sites. There is some argument over what is actually available to dive. Khao Lak dive shops have been warned that these islands (#1 & #2) are off limits. This may or may not be true. IT IS FORBIDDEN to go onto these islands, as they are turtle nesting beaches and very delicate ecosystems!

Shark fin reef is barely submerged and has a couple of different mooring buoys - your DM will choose the appropriate one.

With these sites slightly off the normal routine, you will find fewer divers and more of the easily disturbed fish life (rays, Leopard Sharks) and some other treats - Bumphead Parrotfish and Manta's.

These sites are usually visited once a week on our daytrips or one the final day of a Phuket based liveaboard trip.

Similan Dive Sites - Shark Fin Reef

Shark Fin Reef - Southern Similan Dive Site

Situated roughly 1 kilometer south-east of Island 3, Shark Fin Reef is a 900m long slab of granite, the top of which can be seen at low tide in the form of three small pointed rocks which give the divesite it’s name – a very similar look to a gigantic sharkfin!

This site we visit via